Portugal’s Setubal region, just south of the capital Lisbon, is
believed to be the first place grapes were planted on the Iberian
Peninsula about 4,000 years ago. Despite the confusions of history wine
has continued to be made in the area since, even during the Muslim
occupation for 500 years from the eighth century.
The world’s biggest vineyard was located on the Setubal peninsula
during the 18th century. Jose Maria da Fonseca owned more than 4,000
hectares producing 30,000 barrels a year. Today Setubal has about 9,000
hectares under vine and 36 major producers.
The best-known wine is Moscatel de Setubal, a white fortified made
from moscatel grapes (similar to Muscat of Alexandria). A sweet pink or
red version is also made from the moscatel roxo grape. Moscatel de
Setubal is one of the world’s most distinctive fortified wines, and
gained fame in England after Richard II ordered it imported for the
royal court in the second half of the 14th century.
The region became officially recognised in 1908, and in 2008 the
Brotherhood of the Moscatel of Setubal designed a special glass for its
centenary.
Henrique Soares is president of the Comissao Vitivinicola Regional da
Peninsula da Setubal, translated as the regional wine commission for
the Setubal Peninsula. The commission was formed in 1991 with the aim to
guarantee the quality, origin and authenticity of wine from the region.
Henrique escorted four wine journalists around the region. He pointed
out that Setubal makes only 5 per cent of Portugal’s wine but accounts
for about 11 per cent of sales in the country.
One of the most famous fortified producers is Casa Agrícola Horácio
Simões. Horacio Simoes founded the estate, which has 65 hectares, the
same year as the start of the republic in 1910. His son and grandson
bear the same name and all three generations are still involved in
winemaking.
Their 2012 Moscatel de Setubal tastes like peach nectar encased in
subtle tannins and is delicious with the local azeital cheese and sweet
tomato chutney.
The estate has only 2 hectares of moscatel roxo. The fortified is
produced in a similar way to sherry in the sense the wine is allowed to
become oxidised in barrels, a style unique to this vineyard. Barrels
lose about 5 per cent each year. This is known as the “angel’s portion”
which is appropriate because the estate is located in the village of
Angel. Sometimes local producers use chestnut barrels instead of oak.
The region grows a range of red grapes including castelao, touriga
nacional, aragonez and touriga franca, along with the international
varieties cabernet sauvignon and syrah.
Casa Agrícola Horácio Simões makes wines from semillon and castelao.
The 2012 Val dos Altos (translates as garlic valley) semillon offers
lovely acid zing with lemon tang with superb length and texture. The
2012 Val dos Altos castelao tastes and smells of raspberries and is made
using the traditional method of foot treading in lagares (concrete
tanks). Both are absolute bargains at only 6 euro at the vineyard.
Moscatel is versatile. Locals also produce aromatic dry whites from
this grape. One of the best comes from the Adega de Palmela, a
300-member co-operative that manages about 1,000 hectares. Winemaker
Luis Silva was in Angola when we visited – Angola is Portugal’s main
export market – so assistant winemaker Filipa Gorjao showed us their
extensive range.
At the Vinipax wine festival in mid October the co-operative’s 2013
Vale dos Barris moscatel was named best white wine. Filipa said the
co-op makes about half million bottles. It sells for under 2 euro a
bottle in Portugal’s supermarkets yet is a wonderful wine.
The 2013 Vale dos Barris rose is blushing pink with aromas of red
fruits and compote, and tastes of dry Turkish delight. It’s a blend of
syrah, castelao and arragones. At 2 euro from the vineyard it is another
amazing bargain. The co-op’s symbol is the sword of Santiago, famous
during the Crusades.
Another co-operative with an excellent range of wines was the
Cooperativa Agricola Santo Isidro in the village of Pegões. Isidro is
the patron saint of farmers. The group, founded in 1958, has 1,100
hectares and 100 members and produces 11 million bottles. It exports to
35 countries.
We have insufficient space to discuss all the wines, but many have
won scores of international awards in recent years. Like many Portuguese
wines, they represent probably the best value in Europe in terms of
quality versus price.
Of particular note were the 2013 Adega de Pegões Harvest White, a
blend of four grapes with lovely acid zing, and the 2012 Adega de Pegões
syrah. The latter had rich texture and slightly savoury tannins that
acted as a foil for the mass of black fruits in the mouth.
Adega de Pegões has twice been named Portugal’s wine co-op of the year.
Assistant winemaker Inês Pimentel finished the tasting with a
non-vintage moscatel de Setubal which was delicious. Amber coloured, it
offered aromas of dried apricots, hay and herbs. It managed to feel dry
and sweet at the same time, possibly because it is left for 18 months in
barrels the previously held red wines. It is only 4 euros in local
stores. "
Fonte: http://sraquinn.org/2014/10/30/wine-column-for-week-of-3-november-2014/
